Matthieu Blazy's inaugural haute couture collection for Chanel has captivated audiences, setting a new standard for modern elegance. Unveiled within the majestic Grand Palais, against a whimsical backdrop of colossal, vibrantly colored mushrooms, the presentation extended the fluid aesthetic first introduced in his ready-to-wear debut. This collection marks a significant evolution, blending the house's heritage with a fresh, contemporary vision that resonated deeply with the fashion elite.
The runway show commenced with an ethereal silk mousseline ensemble, rendered in soft, delicate tones of nudes and pinks, embodying a subtle yet powerful femininity. Blazy’s creative vision then transitioned, as described in the accompanying notes, to a narrative where "the women at the center of the collection begin to transform into birds." This concept was artfully translated through a series of designs, from deep raven black to vivid, multi-hued plumage. The collection masterfully employed embroidery, layering, pleating, and weaving techniques to evoke the essence of feathers, often suggesting their presence rather than explicitly utilizing them, thus achieving a sophisticated lightness.
Blazy expressed his inspiration for this avian theme, stating, "I was interested in birds, because they are free, because they travel, because they come from every place. I thought it was a beautiful metaphor for women today." This sentiment underpins the collection's liberating spirit, which aims to empower modern women through fashion that is both beautiful and unbound. The show's profound significance was recognized by both the fashion house and Blazy himself, building upon his successful ready-to-wear debut last October and his first Métiers d’Art presentation in New York in December.
Chanel remains a rare powerhouse in the couture world, boasting a substantial business in this exclusive segment. However, the landscape is becoming increasingly competitive, with established names and emerging contenders alike vying for prominence. Brands like Balenciaga have intensified their couture offerings, and Hermès is poised to join the ranks in early 2025. For Chanel, Blazy brings a wealth of experience, honed through his previous work on Maison Margiela's Artisanal line, coupled with a vibrant, innovative spirit. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion and Chanel SAS, emphasized that "Haute couture is the essence of Chanel, built on the fundamentals Gabrielle Chanel established in 1915." He highlighted the brand's unique ecosystem, comprising five haute couture ateliers, a specialized galons atelier, and the collective expertise of the maisons d’art at Le 19M, all contributing to its creative prowess.
Pavlovsky further noted Blazy’s approach, explaining, "Matthieu Blazy builds on these foundations as a field of experimentation, pushing boundaries with new materials and techniques." While Chanel’s 2025 earnings are yet to be disclosed, Pavlovsky projected a "transitional year of growth" for the house. The couture show, attended by 750 guests across two back-to-back presentations, featured a star-studded front row. Long-standing Chanel ambassadors such as Penélope Cruz, Charlotte Casiraghi, and Vanessa Paradis mingled with new faces like Nicole Kidman and A$AP Rocky, alongside Dua Lipa. The casting notably included mature models, with Bhavitha Mandava, who opened the New York Métiers d’Art show, closing this collection.
The curated soundtrack, a collaboration by Michel Gaubert and Fabien Leclercq, fused Moby’s "Porcelain" with Oasis’s "Wonderwall" and The Verve’s "Bitter Sweet Symphony"—a selection resonating with a distinctly millennial sensibility. Blazy shared his vision for the music, hoping it would evoke a sense of "melancholia, but also optimism, so I really hope that moment is not like a boom, boom, boom, but like a breath." This thoughtful consideration extended to every aspect of the show, creating an immersive experience for all attendees.
The reception to Chanel’s new couture direction was overwhelmingly positive, with guests praising its lightness and feminine appeal. While some clients accustomed to Chanel’s more traditional tweed aesthetics may need time to adjust, the majority enthusiastically embraced the shift. Olivier Gabet, director of the decorative arts department at Le Louvre, lauded the collection's "great sense of sprezzatura," commending the effortless elegance that belied the immense craftsmanship involved. Content creator Bryan Yambao described the collection as "joyous, intimate, meaningful and extremely personal," particularly appreciating its exploration of lightness and clever, subtle details like personal embroidery on muslin handkerchiefs and "ghost" handbags. Rachel Tashjian, senior style reporter at CNN, highlighted the collection's emphasis on "movement" and "freedom," noting its departure from heavier styles often dictated by still photography or social media. Lucien Pagès, founder of Lucien Pagès Communication, was struck by the "delicacy" and "refined couture" on display, especially in the tailored pieces. Caroline Issa, CEO and fashion director of Tank Magazine, praised the collection’s ability to delight through its harmonious blend of lightness, artisanal craftsmanship, and inclusive casting. Beka Gvishiani, founder of StyleNotCom, succinctly called it "probably the lightest haute couture show I have ever seen."
Clients also shared their impressions. Cécile Demole, a Switzerland-based couture client, found the embroidery magnificent and the collection overall conveyed femininity. She particularly admired a beige suit with embroidered roses and the final look, acknowledging the initial pieces' beautiful yet challenging wearability. Jwana Karim, a Dubai-based client, expressed her affinity for tweed, contemplating the purchase of a black tweed skirt. Mindy Lin Prugnaud, co-founder of Mint Group, observed her growing admiration for Blazy’s work, describing the show’s progression from "dreamy, sheer featherlight weights" to a "parade of exquisite silhouettes." She eloquently captured the magical atmosphere, noting how "every detail resonated with its unique material, shape and color," as they were "escaped into Chanel’s magical world" amidst giant mushrooms and pink willow trees.
Ultimately, Matthieu Blazy's debut haute couture collection for Chanel signals a bold and innovative chapter for the esteemed fashion house. By embracing fluidity, lightness, and a modern interpretation of femininity, Blazy has successfully redefined contemporary couture while honoring Chanel's rich legacy. The collection's profound artistry and imaginative narrative, set against a dreamlike backdrop, have been met with widespread acclaim, solidifying Blazy's position as a visionary leader shaping the future of high fashion. This collection not only showcased breathtaking designs but also celebrated the enduring spirit of creativity and empowerment inherent in Chanel's heritage.