J. Press, a storied American fashion institution rooted in Ivy League heritage since 1902, is embarking on an ambitious resurgence in the United States. While the brand has flourished in Japan, its domestic presence has remained subdued. The appointment of Jack Carlson, known for his work with Rowing Blazers, as the new creative director signals a strategic shift. Carlson's vision centers on revitalizing J. Press's American appeal, expanding its retail footprint, and leveraging its Japanese ownership as a unique advantage, all while upholding the brand's authentic preppy aesthetic.
Carlson's immediate objective upon joining J. Press six months ago was to reposition the brand firmly within the American menswear landscape. He views the brand's participation in New York Fashion Week as a crucial step to showcase its enduring relevance. Carlson emphasizes J. Press's commitment to quality, with most garments still crafted in the U.S. by American manufacturers, a testament to its standard-bearer status in American menswear. His strategy involves connecting with a new generation of consumers who are increasingly drawn to authentic American sportswear and Ivy styles, moving beyond a perception of the aesthetic as dated or merely costume.
The current collection, deeply inspired by the 1965 Japanese publication "Take Ivy," reflects Carlson's dedication to the brand's core identity. This seminal book documented the collegiate fashion of American Ivy League campuses, a fitting influence for J. Press, which was founded at Yale. Carlson aims to translate the essence of "Take Ivy" into a living collection, underscoring that J. Press embodies genuine Ivy style, distinguishing itself from brands that merely draw inspiration from it or have veered towards Italian-influenced cuts.
Under the stewardship of Japanese owner Onward Holdings, J. Press has enjoyed considerable success in Japan, boasting 80 stores and substantial revenue. In contrast, its US operations are much smaller, with only three stores. Carlson is tasked with a significant expansion plan for the American market, aiming to increase the number of US stores to 20 by 2030 and boost US revenues tenfold, from under $10 million to $100 million. This growth will be fueled by a commitment to the authentic Ivy Prep aesthetic, targeting menswear enthusiasts who appreciate meticulous details like the "three-roll-two" jacket and the "hook center vent."
A key element of Carlson’s strategy involves enhancing the digital presence of J. Press, starting with a comprehensive overhaul of its website. The updated platform now prominently features campaign imagery, highlights the “Made in USA” commitment, and integrates with social media, demonstrating a contemporary approach. This digital transformation has already begun to drive e-commerce sales, setting the stage for future growth. Beyond the online realm, the brand is actively pursuing physical retail expansion, with plans to open new stores in major cities and affluent suburban locations across the US, including Chicago, California, Florida, and Texas. These brick-and-mortar stores are designed to immerse customers in the brand's rich history through photographs and artifacts, creating a unique and tangible experience that a website cannot replicate.
Carlson also champions J. Press's Japanese connection, which he sees as a significant competitive advantage in the global menswear market. Historically, the brand has focused primarily on its "American Ivy" identity, but Carlson intends to foreground its Japanese ties, exemplified by the "Take Ivy" inspiration for the latest collection and the inclusion of Tokyo in the redesigned J. Press logo. This recognition of Japan's influence in menswear, with its reputation for quality and discerning consumers, enhances the brand's credibility. The updated logo, featuring New Haven, New York, and Tokyo, symbolizes the brand's journey from a collegiate outfitter to a national and ultimately an international representative of American Ivy style. While complete integration between the US and Japanese operations may be a long-term goal due to distinct consumer behaviors, Carlson aims to foster greater synergy, leveraging the brand's bicultural strength.
The creative director is confident that focusing on J. Press's distinct, classic American menswear aesthetic, rather than trying to appeal to everyone, will ultimately broaden its customer base. He believes that consumers are seeking brands with a clear identity and consistent quality, and J. Press's unwavering commitment to its heritage provides just that. This approach, combined with strategic digital and physical expansion, positions J. Press for a significant resurgence in the American market, while celebrating its unique global narrative.